The ancient history of Basel is beyond the scope of this photography-centered post. However, I personally enjoy having a little historical context around the places I am exploring. Briefly, Basel was touched by the Celts as early as 100 BC to 50 AD, followed by the Romans in the 1st and 2d century. After that, Basel came under the control of the Old-World kingdoms that have now evolved into France, Germany, and Hungary. In 1500, Basel joined the Swiss Confederation and is now one of the three largest cities in Switzerland.
Basel, like many cities, has an “Old Town”. Much of the old-town architecture of note seems to come from 1300 – 1700. Your approach into Old Town Basel will likely begin with a crossing of the Mittlere Bridge.
Mittlere Bridge crosses the Rhine at a point that is one of the oldest crossings on the Rhine. The bridge we see today was built in 1905 and replaced the original bridge built in 1226. A copy of the old bridge chapel – the Käppelijoch – was added to the new bridge. In the middle ages, criminals were sentenced to death at the Käppelijoch.
After crossing Mittlere, you have some great destinations to choose from. I began with Marktplatz which is the central square of Old Town. Dominating the view in this square is the vibrant red Basel Rathaus (old town hall). The center portion of the building was built in the early 1500’s with the tower and left wing (as you face it) added in the 1800’s. If you zoom in on the second image, the detailed art on the building is amazing. Marktplatz is filled with shops and places to eat…and I ate plenty.
Leaving Marketplatz, I next set my sights on the old city gate and the walk there was filled with vibrant colored homes.
Spalentor (c. 1370) is a medieval city gate and all that remains of what was once the fortified city walls of old town Basel.
Located near Spalentor is Saint Peter’s Church built in the early 1300s.
After visiting Spalentor, I turned towards another key city square in Old Town. Munsterplatz is a square surrounding the historic Basler Munster (Basel Minster) church.
A Roman fort one stood on these grounds in the 2nd century. Most of the existing buildings today were built in the 1700s. Off to the right of picture below (not shown) is a nice park area with benches to relax and enjoy the scenery. The church is certainly a focal point in this square as it has been throughout the ages regardless of which city-state or nation controlled the area.
As you can see in the photos below, Basler Munster (Basel Minster) has tall spires and vibrant roof top tiles. The church was built and expanded between the 9th – 13th century. Partially destroyed by an earthquake in 1356, it was rebuilt in the Gothic style we see today.
Basler Munster sits upon the highest point in Basel. The Rhine river was of critical importance for trade and movement of supplies so the city and waterway needed to be defended. The elevation of this point optimized defensive positions. The presence of a fort and soldiers drove the need for a place of worship upon this plateau.
This is just a small sample of things to do and see in Basel, but they were points of interests that captured my imagination in the limited time I had available. Basel is on the border of France and Germany and within relatively short train rides to Zurich and Geneva so it is a central location for day trips to other areas as well.
Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay is an expansive project in the Marina Bay area of Singapore. It is an eco-tourist destination showcasing sustainable practices and plants from across the globe and is a must-see attraction in Singapore.
The Gardens by the Bay covers 103 acres and has themed garden areas honoring the diversity of people found in Singapore – Chinese, Malay, and Indian – and Singapore’s history. It represents a significant step towards transforming Singapore into a “city within a garden.” They are well on their way. This garden and the focus on flora throughout the city is something that will always standout in my memories of Singapore.
Pompeii was once a flourishing as a coastal retreat for wealthy Romans. It contained a bustling marketplace, beautiful homes, taverns, bathhouses, temples of worship, magnificent architecture, an arena (older than the Roman coliseum) that sat 20,000 people, and a flourishing arts and crafts science. Life was good.
That all changed on one horrific day in 79 AD with the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. The eruption blasted a cloud of volcanic ash and poisonous gas 21 miles into air that could be seen from hundreds of miles away as volcanic debris pummeled the towns below. About 12 hours into the eruption, the massive cloud of gas and volcanic ash collapsed resulting in a pyroclastic flow that rolled down the mountain at 400+ mph with temperatures reaching 1000 degrees Fahrenheit. Only five miles from Mount Vesuvius, Pompeii was instantly engulfed in this searing flow and buried under millions of tons of volcanic ash and pumice.
As many as 16,000 people perished that day in the cities and villas around Mount Vesuvius. The number of dead in Pompeii is estimated at 2,000 and several hundred more in the nearby town of Herculaneum. This suggests there may have been a short window to escape. Some of Herculaneum’s citizens were possibly able to escape to Naples before the pyroclastic flow hit. Others were likely killed along the roads beyond the cities while trying to escape.
In terms of preservation, one interesting aspect of this eruption is the apparent lack of fire. The poisonous gases were oxygen free and no oxygen means no fire. Instead of burning, natural materials like wood were carbonized. In Herculaneum there are some relatively well-preserved wooden pieces such as ceiling beams, beds, shelves, and even the famous papyrus scrolls.
Along with Herculaneum, Pompeii serves as a time capsule of Roman life in the first century. While much of Rome’s cultural and architectural grandeur were destroyed as the Roman Empire collapsed, Pompeii remained frozen in time and free from vandalism and looting for 1700 years. In 1748, archeological excavation of Pompeii began and soon revealed the city and life in ancient Rome to the world.
Pompeii was originally developed by the Greeks around 600 BC as a port city. Over time, Greek influence receded and Roman influence rose. By 200 BC Pompeii was part of the Roman Republic. The Roman Republic lasted from 509 BC to 27 BC. By 79 AD, Rome had transformed from a Republic led by Senators to an Empire led by an Emperor. The Romans always thought highly of Greek culture (adopting much of it as their own and adding to it) so transitions from Greek to Roman control were not typically disruptive or oppressive. The influence of Greek culture is evident throughout Pompeii.
In 79 AD the world was only 79 years removed from Jesus walking the earth. His relatively recent presence hadn’t yet registered in Pompeii as Roman and Greek gods were still being worshipped. The Temple of Apollo (image below), built in 129 BC, is one example.
Apollo was a Greek god also worshipped by the Romans. He was the god of light, reason, truth, art, and healing. This temple had 48 columns surrounding the perimeter. As I understand it, these columns would have supported a roof that formed a covered walkway around the courtyard with the temple in the center.
Moving closer to the temple (image below), you can see the remains of stairs once topped with white marble and the remains of what was once an enclosed temple. As you can imagine, there is little indication of any roofing in Pompeii due to the tons of volcanic debris that nearly leveled the city.
Across from the Temple of Apollo is the Basilica of Pompeii built around 120 BC. This was a covered structure with walls and 28 interior columns. In the picture below, we are looking into the Basilica from the Forum. The Basilica was a central building for matters of justice as well as commercial activities and one of the most important buildings in Pompeii.
Below, we are looking at an outer wall of the Basilica. There was another level to this wall that would have extended the height by 50%.
At the end of the Basilica is the elevated tribunal where magistrates would sit. The tribunal gives you a sense of the Basilica’s height that would have extended around building. The bases of columns in the photo below were on the interior of the building and would have extended upward to the second-story ceiling.
Given the administration of justice that occurred in the Basilica, it seems fitting the building would be located next to the Temple of Apollo – god of reason and truth. Leaving the Basilica, you step into the Forum. This was a central area of commerce and political activity in Pompeii.
The Forum was lined with columns, statues, and other buildings of importance. The image below is looking down the western edge of the Forum. There was a second level of shorter columns on top of what we now see and a roof extending to the left that provided a covered walkway around the forum.
At the north end of the Forum sits the Temple of Jupiter. Jupiter was the chief Roman god and held a position similar to Zeus for the Greeks. Jupiter was the god of the sky, thunder, and king of all gods. Symbols associated with Jupiter include the lightening bolt and eagle. This temple has six columns across the front and five down the side. The roof would have extended from a central building out to the front columns to create a covered but open entrance. To the left and right of the temple are triumphal arches. One was dedicated to Augustus, the first emperor or Rome.
Leaving the Forum, I traveled out to the edge of the city to visit the Villa dei Misteri. I had the unique experience of imagining what it would be like to walk through the Pompeii “suburbs”.
Knowing Mount Vesuvius is still active left me with an eerie feeling while walking along the destroyed homes and quiet streets. It erupted in 1700 BC and again in 79 AD with a dormant period of 1800 years between eruptions. Knowing it has been over 1900 years since the last eruption, I had the sense that it could happen at any moment. This feeling was even stronger on the quiet edges of the city.
After a somewhat lengthy walk, I arrive at the Villa dei Misteri. A highlight of this home is that it contains frescoes depicting the secret initiation ritual for women into the worship of Dionysus. Like Apollo, Dionysus was also a Greek god worshipped by the Romans. He was associated with wine, theatre, fertility, and spiritual ecstasy. The Romans often referred to him as Bacchus.
Having run low on time, I make my way back to the rendezvous point for the tour group I had abandoned after arriving at Pompeii. The tour guide was moving way to slow, burned time on rather mundane topics, and wasn’t going to all the places I wanted to see. I could feel precious minutes wasting away so I broke from the group rather quickly. If I were to do it again, I would download one of the apps for Pompeii, get to the city as early in the day as possible, and explore it by myself.
I really enjoy history and loved my visit to Pompeii. If you are visiting cities like Naples, Sorrento, or the Amalfi Coast you will be within striking distance of Pompeii. This is a trip should make. Also, the city of Herculaneum is about 10 miles away and said to be even better preserved than Pompeii. Designing a day that gives allows 4-6 hours in Pompeii and 3 hours in Herculaneum is how I will do it…next time.
Del Mar, California is a seaside village about 20 miles north of San Diego, California. It is close but feels like a world away. Del Mar is a place you go to relax and unwind.
I’ve been fortunate to visit Del Mar twice and stayed at the L’Auberge resort on both occasions.
Its location and view of the pacific ocean are ideal. The rooms, spa, dining options, and pool, and inviting spaces throughout the resort make for a perfect getaway.
I took the photo below from just below L’Auberge as I worked my way down to the ocean front for a morning run.
Arriving at the waterfront, I headed south along a still active railway. It is amazing how close this track is to the shore. It doesn’t really come through in the images below but track sits high along a seaside cliff. This is a great place to run but can feel a bit tense if a train happens to pass through while you are running. Some parts of the shoreline and track are quit narrow.
The images below are from a visit to the Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve. The shoreline cliffs, rock formations, and beach were absolutely mesmerizing.
Del Mar is a destination unto itself if peace and tranquility are what you need. Beyond L’Auberge, Del Mar has plenty of additional lodging options, restaurants (from casual to award-winning), spas, and shopping to round out your relaxing days before and after trips to the beach.
If you want to fill a couple of days with more activities, you are only 20 miles from San Diego and can plan a few excursions into the city for major attractions such as Balboa Park, San Diego Zoo, and the San Diego Harbor.
Established in 1158, Marienplatz is the historic central square in Munich, Germany. It has evolved over the centuries with new buildings and how the square is used but it has always been a place to gather. Today it is filled with restaurants, shops, and must-see architecture.
Heading towards Marienplatz, I am filled with anticipation. I realize it probably sounds a little silly, but these moments remind me of the feeling I had as a child on Christmas morning. The sights awaiting me are like gifts, and I can’t wait to see them.
Arriving on the west side of Old Town and west Marienplatz, I see the Karlstor. Karlstor is one of three remaining town gates from medieval Munich’s city wall. The city wall was a defensive fortification for Munich. It is thought to have been built around 1300 when Munich’s city wall fortifications were expanded.
Once inside the gate, I am in “Old Town” Munich. It seems that Old Town and Marienplatz are sometimes used interchangeably but Marienplatz is actually the name of the main city square inside Old Town. As I walk along Neuhauserstraße – a pedestrian walkway that has existed since 1293 -towards Marienplatz, the view is breathtaking.
In the image below, the white building is St. Michael’s Church completed in 1597. The building to left, known as the Old Academy, was designed originally as a college and completed in 1590. The building to the right is what was once the Augustinian Church originally built in the 1200’s and added to over the centuries. Today, it houses a German fishing and hunting museum, shops, and a few government offices.
After a short walk (that I was in no hurry to complete), the road changes into Kaufingerstraße and the towers of Frauenkirche begin to really capture my attention.
The Frauenkirche is a Gothic cathedral completed in 1488. It dominates the Munich skyline and no new buildings in Munich are allowed to exceed the height of the Frauenkirche towers.
Continuing down the road towards Marienplatz, I couldn’t imagine seeing anything more incredible than I had already seen and then…the New Town Hall. Wow! The building is a massive Gothic style structure that still serves as a government building today for the Munich Mayor and other city council and government officials. Construction began on the New Town Hall in 1887 and was completed in 1905. How is that for a building called the “New” Town Hall?
This building also houses the famous Rathaus-Glockenspiel. Consisting of 43 bells and large figures, it chimes every day at 11 a.m. and 12 p.m. (and 5 pm in the summer) to begin the reenactment of two 16th century stories important in Munich’s history. The performance lasts about 15 minutes.
Marienplatz was named after the Mariensäule (the Marian column) erected in the city center in 1638. These columns are common throughout Europe and usually depict the Virgin Mary or other Christian symbol on top of the column. They were typically erected in cities to celebrate the end of the plague or other significant events in a city’s history. In Munich, the Marian column was erected to celebrate the end of Swedish occupation after the Thirty Years War.
So, we have the New Town Hall but became of the old Town Hall? I didn’t really get a great shot of it but did the best I could to salvage the photo below.
Old Town Hall has some interesting history associated with it. The tower (right of center) was built on one of Munich’s original gates (the Talburgtor) in the late 1100’s and is now part of the Old Town Hall tower. The building to the left of the tower is Old Town Hall and was built around 1300. The facade has been remodeled several times over the centuries to reflect evolving architectural tastes. The building serves as a toy museum today.
Next on my list was to find the spot where people take the photo overlooking Marienplatz. It took some looking but I eventually found the high tower. There is a small entrance fee along with a steeeep stairwell but worth every step for the view.
While there is still much to explore in Marienplatz, there are also is a lot to see beyond Marienplatz within walking distance. I spent the rest of the day exploring beyond Marienplatz but ended the day right where I started. Time to enjoy a refreshing drink in the same square people have gathered for over 800 years.
This is the third and final post from my 2019 trip to Rio de Janeiro. Previously, I shared a couple posts focused on my visits to the Christ the Redeemer statue and the Selaron Steps.
Beyond those two destinations, my time was – as always seems to be the case – limited. However, I was able to take in a bit more of Rio here and there.
Enjoying a rooftop sunset from the Grand Hyatt overlooking Barra Da Trijuca.
The images below are of the Rio de Janeiro Cathedral. This Catholic church was inspired by the architectural styling of Mayan temples and holds up to 20,000 people.
One area I would suggest prioritizing and staying in (though I didn’t for work reasons) is Copacabana. I wasn’t able to make it there during the day but have a couple licensed image to share:
Copacabana beach has over 2 million visitors for New Year’s Eve and hosts, perhaps, an even bigger party – Carnival.
I made it to Copacabana for dinner one evening and dined at the famous Copacabana Palace. This is an historic hotel that has hosted some of the biggest names in Hollywood and world leaders alike during trips to Brazil.
Zacapa Rum XO is considered one of the best rums in the world and this seemed like the place and time to try it. I’m now a fan.
Even the subways are vibrant in Brazil.
The use of artistic tiles, better known as azulejos in Portuguese, have a strong presence throughout Rio. The Selaron Steps and Copacabana Beach boardwalk are additional examples. As you may know, while much of South America was settled by Spain, Brazil was colonized by Portugal and Portuguese (not Spanish) is the national language of Brazil.
South America is a continent I hope to see more of in the future and Rio de Janeiro was a great way to start.
The Hoover Dam is located on the Nevada – Arizona border about 30 miles southeast of Las Vegas. Completed in 1935, it harnesses enough water from the Colorado river to irrigate 2 million acres of farm land, provides municipal water for urban centers including Los Angeles, Phoenix, Tucson, and Las Vegas. It also contributes enough hydroelectric power to serve 1.3 million people each year. With 7 million visitors a year, the Hoover Dam is the most-visited dam in the world.
Height of a 60-story building
660 feet thick at its base
Wide enough on top to be used as a highway (as it once was)
Required 5 million barrels of cement
Contains 45 million pounds of reinforced steel
The 6.6 million tons of concrete used for the dam would pave a road stretching from San Francisco to New York City
Summer temperatures were often as high as 115 degrees in the day and cooled to only 95 degrees at night as the dam was being built
The Colorado River is the river that carved the Grand Canyon
Just south of the Hoover Dam is the Hoover Dam Bypass Bridge. It towers 900 feet above the Colorado River’s Black Canyon. It now handles the traffic that once flowed directly over top of the Hoover Dam.
The new traffic flow reduces congestion, improves safety, and increases security at the Hoover Dam. The bridge also offers incredible views from its pedestrian walkway.
The nearby town of Boulder City was created specifically for workers on the Hoover Dam project. The city is still thriving today. Las Vegas had a population of ~ 5,000 people in 1931. Today, Las Vegas has ~ 2,700,000 residents.
If you are visiting Las Vegas, a Hoover Dam excursion is a relatively short trip and definitely worth the visit. If you are planning to visit the Grand Canyon during your trip Vegas, you’ll drive right by the Hoover Dam on your trip.
Nijo Castle was built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. Shogun was a title given to the commander and chief/military dictator of Japan. The Shogun period spanned from 800 to 1867 AD.
While appointed by the Emperor, the Shogun served as the actual ruler of Japan with the Emperor serving as more of a ceremonial and spiritual leader. Real power was returned to the Emperor in 1867 as part of Meiji Revolution.
The castle’s exterior wall, surrounded by a moat, represents the first line of defense. Once inside the castle, there is a secondary circle of defense known as the Ninomaru. The Karamon Gate serves as the entrance to the Ninomaru.
The main feature of the Ninomaru is the Ninomaru Palace which served as the shogun’s residence when visiting Kyoto.
After the fall of the shogun and return of power to the Emporer, Nijo Castle was turned over to the city of Kyoto and later opened up for public access. The castle was designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1994 and serves as an excellent example of castle palace architecture from Japan’s feudal era.
My first post on Porto, Portugal took us through the vibrant and historic waterfront area of Ribiera. You can find it here: Porto Portugal – Walk with Me (Part I). In part II, we’ll begin our visual stroll north of Ribiera and take in a few sights as we work our way down to the riverfront.
Starting near the Campanha train station. The first landmark is a 19th century church, Igreja Santissima Trinidade.
A block south of the church is the breathtaking plaza called Avenida dos Aliados which is filled with architectural gems lining both sides. Statues, hotels, government building, cafes, retail stores, and restaurants make this a popular area in Porto.
At the southern point of Avenida dos Aliados is a monument for King Pedro IV erected in 1866. His story is fascinating as he was in front and center during a period of significant upheaval in Portugal’s history. As the King of Portugal, he was forced to flee Portugal after the French (Napoleonic-era) invasion and conquest of Portugal in 1807. He took up residence in Brazil (Portugal’s wealthiest and most successful colony). He ruled over Brazil and eventually returned to Portugal with an army to regain control of Portugal in the early 1830’s. A lot happened in between his departure and return but that is a story for another day.
Next on my loosely penned itinerary is to locate the Clerigos Tower. Situated on the highest point of historic Porto. I know the view of the city will be one of the best available. I head east from the Avenida dos Aliados and up a steep street to arrive at the Clerigos church. Getting to the top will require a spiraling 250-step ascent but promises a fantastic 360-degree panoramic view of the city. Count me in!
Entering the church, I’m unexpectedly taken back by its splendor and pause for a few photos before getting to the tower.
As I begin my ascent into the tower, I notice the top of a building (image below) that is an actual park. So bizarre to see people laying in the grass surrounded by olive trees…on the roof of a building. This space is known as Jardim das Oliveiras.
Taking in the city view from the Clerigos tower is incredible. You are able to walk all the way around the top and get a 360 degree view. I was able to identify a few of the landmarks I wanted to see and get a general sense of the city’s layout. After leaving the tower, I know everything is downhill to the river. However, there is a famous bookstore (connected to Harry Potter) to visit first.
The Livaria Lello & Irmao is the bookstore where J.K. Rowling is said to have written parts of Harry Potter and inspired aspects of Harry Potter’s Hogwarts.
Around the corner from the Livaria Lello & Irmao bookstore is a plaza featuring the Fountain of the Lions and Igreja do Carmo. The church was built in the late 1700’s and features azulejos – ornate ceramic tiles – on the exterior. I haven’t mentioned this yet but azulejos are everywhere in Porto (and Portugal in general). Sometimes they are simple patterns covering the exterior of homes and at other times they form grand, detailed mosaics. Azulejo was introduced in the 13th century when the Moors (people from region today known as Morocco) controlled much of Iberian peninsula (what is now Portugal and Spain).
After this fun diversion, I set off down the narrow cobblestone streets of Porto towards the waterfront.
Burano is an island in the Venice lagoon (a 40-minute ferry from Venice) famous for its vibrant buildings and lacemaking. I don’t believe I have ever seen a place more densely packed with vibrant colors and textures in my life. I’ll let the photos tell the story.
On The Way to Burano
Located along the waterway between Venice and Murano, there is a small island called San Michele that contains the San Michele in Isola church. Completed in 1469 and dedicated to Saint Michael, the church once served as a monastery and is one of the first examples of Renaissance architecture in Venice. Today, the island is a large cemetery.
Traveling to Burano, you’ll also pass the island of Murano which is worthy of a stop. Murano is world famous for glass making…a tradition stemming from the late Medieval and Renaissance periods.
Coming in at #5 on Travel & Leisure’s “Top Cities in Europe to Visit” readers’ survey for 2019, Porto is a travel destination on the rise. If you visit Porto, the Praca da Ribeira is the must-see location and this is where I’ll start my series of posts on Portugal.
Nestled in along the river front of the Rio Douro, Ribeira is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Porto’s historic city center. It is filled with vibrant architecture, winding cobblestone medieval streets, cafes, and restaurants.
As you can already see in the photos above, Porto is not built on flat terrain. And, if you enjoy exploring on foot, you’ll need to wear very comfortable shoes and be prepared for a leg workout. I began my journey north of Ribeira and take in a few other landmarks before walking down towards the Rio Douro.
Once in Ribeira by the river, there are a few things that are going to command your attention. One is the massive steel bridge – the Ponte de D. Luis. This bridge was designed and constructed by a former student of Gustave Eiffel (designer of the Eiffel Tower).
I am drawn in for a closer look. The bridge has a pedestrian walkway on the lower level and this level is also used by cars. The top level is for a train but also has a pedestrian walkway. I cross on the bottom level with plans to return on the top level.
In the images below, I have crossed the river and we are now looking at Ribeira from the other side of the river.
My main reason for crossing the Douro river, in addition to wanting to experience the bridge up close, was to have a glass of port wine. Porto is where port wine originated and a large part of the riverfront across from Ribeira is lined with port cellars. The area (a separate city) is called Vila Nova de Gaia. You can arrange for tastings (on land or boat cruises) or sample the varieties in one of the many restaurants along the waterfront.
Ribeira is breathtaking and every turn is filled with architectural eye candy. But, be sure to cross the Ponte de D Luis and look at Ribeira from across the river with a glass of port. It is a view you don’t want to miss.
I hope you enjoyed this visual stroll. In my next post, we’ll get a view from the top level of the Ponte de D. Luis and take in some of Porto’s other landmarks in Ribeira and beyond.